may 23, 2024
The white Queen of Tuscany
Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG
Reading Time: 5 mins
Sometimes, choosing a wine is an interesting combination of market demands and friendships within the wine world.
Recently, some of my American customers have been asking me about Vernaccia di San Gimignano. This prompted me to realize that, over the years in the wine business, I had occasionally met a nice man from San Gimignano, Alessio Logi, the owner of one of the most interesting wineries in the appellation, Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara.
And thus, I knew exactly which wine to select for my spring/summer collection: the wonderful Selvabianca Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG. Let’s take a step back and start from the beginning.
In a territory dominated by the great Tuscan reds, Vernaccia di San Gimignano shines as the white queen. With a history spanning over eight hundred years, this wine has undergone continuous evolution, becoming the first Italian wine to obtain the DOC in 1966, thanks to the efforts of Countess Balbi Valier. And that’s not all: in 1993, Vernaccia di San Gimignano became the only white DOCG in Tuscany. A recognition that underscores the quality and importance of this wine.
The terroir of San Gimignano is unique. The vineyards are planted on soils formed from Pliocene marine deposits, with yellow sands (tuff) and yellow clays layered over more compact clays. This mix gives the wines a unique and extremely refreshing sapidity. To promote this wine, the Consorzio del Vino Vernaccia di San Gimignano was founded in 1972, since then working tirelessly to ensure quality and modernization in production.
Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara: A Family Story
Now, let’s talk about the winery I selected: Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara. Their story is typical of the wine world, but for them, it’s special. It all began with Mario, the father, who was already working in the fields of San Gimignano in the 1950s. Over time and with passion, the business grew, transforming from a general agricultural activity into a well-established viticultural enterprise.
In 2002, the three brothers Alessio, Giampiero, and Stefano decided to fully dedicate themselves to viticulture. Alessio, the youngest, driven by his passion for oenology, led the family into this new adventure. The vineyards span 22 hectares within the Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG, with soils ranging from Pliocene sands to clays and pebbles.
The winery operates under certified organic farming, respecting the land and preserving its richness. This commitment is reflected in their wines, which are deep, complex, and capable of aging beautifully.
Selvabianca: The Perfect Choice
The wine I selected for my spring/summer collection is Selvabianca from Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara. It’s a 100% Vernaccia di San Gimignano, with vinification involving whole-cluster maceration and gentle whole-cluster pressing. Fermentation takes place in cement and stainless steel tanks, with aging on the noble lees until bottling.
But let’s talk about the characteristics that won me over. Selvabianca presents a straw-yellow color with greenish reflections. On the nose, it’s fresh and mineral, with aromas of white-fleshed fruit, apple, lime, lily of the valley, thyme, and lemon balm. On the palate, it’s taut, vibrant, and fresh, with incisive sapidity that makes it long and decisive on the finish.
And the pairings? It’s perfect with tartare, carpaccios, light first courses, fried land or sea dishes, and roasted white meats. I found it particularly interesting with sea bass carpaccio and a fennel and orange salad.
Selvabianca is a wine that takes Vernaccia di San Gimignano to a higher level. With notes of apricot and yellow peach, and a curious iodized hint, this wine manages to surprise and enchant. It’s intense, invigorating, and with a sapid streak that gives it character. A wine that promises to age well and deliver emotions for many years to come.
Would you like to enjoy Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara’s exceptional wines
but can’t make to Italy or find it nearby?
No worries!
I’ll be more than happy to ship the finest expressions of
Selvabianca Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG vintage 2023,
straight to your door (nearly) worldwide.