SEPTEMBER 26, 2024

A return to the roots:

Roberto Cipresso’s new winery in Montalcino

Roberto Cipresso

Reading Time: 6 mins

This is a story that goes back almost 18 years—a story that began when I first set foot in Montalcino for my initial deep dive into the world of Tuscan wine. Back then, I met Roberto Cipresso, already a renowned and well-known winemaker, but also a remarkably humble man, always offering a smile and a witty comment when randomly meeting in the small piazza of Montalcino.

Over the years, Roberto’s career has been quite unique. After founding his first winery in Montalcino and later selling it, he chose to travel the world, bringing his cellar expertise to various international projects. This journey has turned him into a global wine consultant, gaining extensive experience from all corners of the wine world. Yet, his ties to his origins have never been broken.

In 2021 Roberto decided to return to reinvest in Montalcino and establish ‘Winecircus’, a winery and laboratory for research and development, home of a new portfolio of wines that bears his name: Roberto Cipresso.

Just a few days ago, I finally had the opportunity to visit this new venture, which is strategically located for ease of logistics. From the outside, it might seem a little less romantic—not nestled in rows of vineyards but positioned for practical access. However, once you step inside, you are transported into a unique space that blends a contemporary, slightly industrial look with a jazz music backdrop. The atmosphere is so meticulously curated that it feels almost meditative.

Roberto Cipresso Montalcino
Roberto Cipresso Montalcino

Here, beyond his wines, the common thread is the educational aspect. There is a section where all the scents are collected in their most natural form, and a wall displays over 400 soil samples that Roberto has gathered from his collaborations worldwide. There is a barrique where you can see and touch the work of the yeasts, with the marvelous technique of batonnage. Every detail is truly thought out with the utmost care.

I was guided on this visit by Pietro Menchini, who was my colleague when I worked at Banfi. This experience felt like an educational journey through the world of wine, not just of Montalcino but globally. The visit concluded with a tasting of wines from their line, proudly carrying the name Roberto Cipresso.

These wines are produced with grapes sourced from the Poggio al Sole estate, in the beautiful Montalcino countryside. The estate includes a small vineyard dedicated to Brunello di Montalcino, characterized by meticulous manual cultivation practices that preserve the natural texture and softness of the soil. The winery focuses on producing high-quality Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino wines, adhering to a philosophy that combines tradition with a quest for balance and elegance.

Brunello di Montalcino Roberto Cipresso

In my recent visit to Roberto Cipresso’s winery in Montalcino, I was captivated by one wine in particular: La Quadratura del Cerchio. This wine stood out to me for its exceptional balance and depth, and I’ve decided to add it to my wine selection.

The name La Quadratura del Cerchio, or “Squaring the Circle,” reflects an ancient challenge of achieving perfect balance—an apt metaphor for this wine. The story of La Quadratura del Cerchio began in 1995, marking the start of over twenty years of research by Roberto Cipresso. 

La Quadratura del Cerchio Roberto Cipresso

His vision was to create the “perfect wine” by blending Sangiovese and Montepulciano, two iconic Italian varietals that grow along the 43rd North Parallel. This parallel is significant; it runs through some of the most notable wine regions in the world, from Georgia, the birthplace of viticulture, to Italy’s Tuscany, Umbria, and Marche, areas known for their rich viticultural heritage.

What makes this wine truly unique is its break from traditional winemaking rules. The blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano, grown in vineyards along the 43rd parallel, allows for a co-fermentation that is rarely seen in typical wine production. This terroir, influenced by two seas and diverse microclimates, adds a rich complexity to the grapes, resulting in a wine that is both innovative and rooted in the land’s history.

For me, La Quadratura del Cerchio encapsulates the essence of Roberto Cipresso’s philosophy—pushing the boundaries of traditional winemaking while celebrating the natural harmony of the region. It is a testament to what can be achieved when passion, tradition, and innovation come together. I’m excited to share this wine with you and believe it will be a standout addition to our selection​.

Claudia Callegari

Would you like to enjoy Roberto Cipresso’s exceptional wines 

but can’t make to Italy or find it nearby?

No worries! 

I’ll be more than happy to ship the finest expressions of 

La Quadratura del Cerchio, vintage 2019, straight to your door 

(nearly) worldwide.

Ready to toast?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *